christian dior kolekcja new look

A Dior (Christian Dior Couture e Parfums Christian Dior) respeita a privacidade de seus clientes. Seus dados pessoais, obtidos por meio desta página, destinam-se à entidade Dior selecionada e pertinente (Christian Dior Couture e/ou Parfums Christian Dior) para o envio de comunicações com ofertas, novidades e eventos Dior, na gestão de seu relacionamento comercial e com o cliente. NEW LOOK. The New Look was the name given to a style of women's clothing launched by Christian Dior in his first haute couture collection presented in Paris on 12 February 1947. The styles that made up the look corresponded, according to the show's program, to the shapes "8" and "Corolla," respectively described as "clear, rounded, bust Through the Dior autumn-winter 2022-2023 ready-to-wear collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri opens the doors to a new era. The iconic Bar jacket is reinvented with technical inserts created with the Italian start-up D-Air lab*. From clothing to accessories, the creations interweave aesthetics and technology, transforming Dior heritage. Pascal Le Segretain. Raf Simons. Par Alexandre Marain. Mariage. Par Laura Tortora. Beauté. Par Kiana Murden. From Christian Dior’s post-war New Look fashion sensation to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s 21st-century feminist vision, Vogue looks back at the storied history of the house of Dior’s groundbreaking designers. 27-mar-2014 - Explora el tablero "Christian Dior " New Look" 1947" de HISTORIA DE LA MODA, que 204 personas siguen en Pinterest. Ver más ideas sobre moda, de moda, historia de la moda. Site De Rencontre Gratuit Femme Cherche Homme. Dior’s iconic bar jacket photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in the ‘Dior Couture’ book. The year was 1947 when Christian Dior unveiled his first collection in Paris, and it was immediately dubbed the “new look” by Harper’s Bazaar US, cementing the designer’s place in fashion history. This look was characterized by layers of fabric and of course the iconic bar jacket which would endure for many years. Following up the post-war years of austere style, Dior ushered in a Belle Epoque sense of luxury with layers of fabric that sometimes used over twenty yards of material. In the same way, Dior uses the feel of luxury in a bottle of Christian Dior perfume through a combination of notes that harmonize to classic perfection, culminating in a sleek and timeless spray bottle design–the bar jacket hits all the same notes for wearers of the piece. Dior’s Bar jacket is characterized by molded curves, a cinched waist, elevated bust and padded hips. Christian Dior named it the Bar jacket since the piece was intended for the afternoon cocktail hour at hotels. What made Dior’s “new look” so captivating? The full skirts and focus on the female form was welcomed by many women in Europe and the United States after the war years where materials were limited and rationed. Moreover, Dior helped Paris regain its premiere fashion capital status after its fall during WWII. Dior Bar Jacket in Photos Through the years, the Bar jacket has been re-created by Dior creative directors John Galliano and Raf Simons (and not to mention countless other designers inspired by Dior’s “new look”). Galliano often featured the piece in his couture showings while Raf Simons made the bar jacket a staple of his debut, fall 2012 haute couture collection. The jacket has remained popular with women ever since its inception because though trends in what is considered “en vogue” for the ideal women’s body type, the bar jacket flattered any woman’s figure – something women searching for the perfect jacket for virtually any occasion knew they could count on. Iconic fashion pieces like this come along only once in a while – think “little black dress.” Pieces like this also become our main wardrobe staples, like the perfect watch, your signature scent, and your go-to clutch when you’re heading out the door. To say fashion as art may seem like an oversimplification, but when design and structure are nailed the way they were with creating the bar jacket, it’s an absolute truth. John Galliano designed a red version of the bar jacket for Dior’s fall 2009 couture show. Raf Simons’ sleek and modern version of the Dior bar jacket for Dior’s fall 2012 haute couture show. Raf Simons’ sleek and modern version of the Dior bar jacket for Dior’s fall 2012 haute couture show. Raf Simons’ updated version of the Dior bar jacket for ‘Dior: New Couture’ by Patrick Demarchelier. The Dior bar jacket featured in the brand’s spring 2009 couture runway show. Back Exhibitions The crafts The story of Dior The books 12 February 1947, an international success This is the story of a quip, which thanks to a magical moment, forged a legend. On 12 February 1947 at Christian Dior, aged 42, presented his first collection at 30 Avenue Montaigne, which was strewn with flowers by Lachaume. The Editor-in-Chief of Harper's Bazaar, Carmel Snow, strongly believed in the couturier's talent, which she had already noted in 1937 with the Café Anglais model that he designed for Robert Piguet. At the end of the fashion show, having seen those unique silhouettes, those lengths, those volumes, those tiny waists and devilishly sexy busts, she exclaimed, "It's quite a revolution, dear Christian! Your dresses have such a new look!" A correspondent from Reuters seized upon the slogan and quickly wrote it on a note that he threw from the balcony to a courier posted on Avenue Montaigne. The news reached the United States even before the rest of France, where the press had been on strike for a month. The American journalist, who cabled the brilliant slogan to her editor, did not know how right she was. The newness of which she spoke caused shock waves on both sides of the Atlantic. Just two years after the war, Dior, with this collection in his own image, definitively turned the page of restriction, gloom, rationing, gravity and uniforms. With the utmost seriousness, he wanted to give women back their taste for light-heartedness, the art of seduction: he had known since his childhood that they always kept it hidden somewhere within them, even in the most dramatic of circumstances. He learnt this in Granville during the Second World War, by observing women looking at the Parisian magazines that it was so difficult to get hold of: surprised and excited by the fashionable dresses, they raced to have them made as soon as they closed the magazine. The Bar jacket, an icon of the New Look With his revolutionary New Look, Christian Dior wrote a new chapter in the history of fashion. Furthermore, in order to write it, he literally constructed it with his own hands. The would-be architect had to hammer away at a Stockman mannequin that was too tough and unyielding to bear the preparatory canvases of his visionary wardrobe, says his friend Suzanne Luling: "And so, with big, nervous blows of the hammer, he gave the mannequin the same form of the ideal woman for the fashion that he was to launch." His aim was clear; his hand did not tremble. "I wanted my dresses to be 'constructed', moulded on the curves of the female body whose contours they would stylise. I accentuated the waist, the volume of the hips, I emphasised the bust. In order to give my designs more hold, I had nearly all the fabrics lined with percale or taffeta, renewing a tradition that had long been abandoned." Thus, on 12 February 1947 at the announcer introduced "numéro un, number one". The first outfit was worn by Marie-Thérèse and opened the show during which the astounded audience saw 90 different creations file past, belonging to two principal lines: En Huit and Corolle. Bettina Ballard, Fashion Editor at Vogue, had returned to New York a few months earlier after 15 years spent covering French fashion from Paris, believing European fashion was heading for a dead end. But she was a good sport and even she had to bow to the innovative genius of Dior: "We have witnessed a revolution in fashion at the same time as a revolution in the way of showing fashion." The Bar jacket immortalised in the famous photo by Willy Maywald, was a signature piece from this collection with its cream shantung morning coat with rounded tails that closely followed the curves of the bust and its large black pleated skirt that flared out, giving the gait an elegant swing that had never been seen before. It was all cleverly completed by a little black pillar-box hat perched cheekily on the head, gloves and fine slender shoes in complete contrast to the square-toed shoes with wedged heels worn by those who had come to watch the fashion show. One by one, like plucking petals from a daisy, it was possible to pick out the major pieces of this manifesto-collection that demonstrated the style and state of mind of a rigorous and joyful man. There was the Passe-Partout suit in navy-blue wool crepe with its crew-neck jacket, pockets on the chest and the tails and pencil skirt that outlined the irreproachable En Huit line. The Corolle afternoon dress in black wool fastened with five large buttons on the bust and skirt with aptly-named miraculous pleats. The Jungle sheath dress with a panther motif, the Soirée dress with two layers of superimposed pleats in navy blue taffeta... In short, from Rita Hayworth to the average woman on the street that couture did not normally touch, but who learnt during the post-war period to work miracles with her sewing machine, everyone now wanted to adopt this new look that Christian Dior himself was later to describe as "the return to an ideal of civilised happiness." Not long after the fashion show, Elle magazine printed a photo of Marlene Dietrich's calves, the "most beautiful legs in the world", advising its readers to take a good look because they were never likely to be seen again – the star had just ordered 10 New Look dresses whose hems would now cover her up! Dior became "the most famous Frenchman in the world", according to the headline of the L'Aurore newspaper. A photo showed two women tearing apart the New Look outfit of a third woman in the middle of the street, shocked by the lengths of fabric and ‘indecent’ sensuality. It was to misunderstand the motivation of Dior who, in designing "flower women with soft shoulders, blossoming bosoms, waists as slender as creepers and skirts as wide as corollas" only wanted to make them happy. Which he succeeded in doing. Over six decades after its creation, the New Look revolution and its spirit continue to inspire Dior. The New Look is a perpetual evolution. DELETE THIS ADDRESS ? DELETE THIS ADDRESS ? Remove This Product ? You must be logged in to add this product to your wishlist NOTIFY ME To say that the New Look of 1947 is integral to Dior would be an understatement. The feminine silhouette changed the game, and put the house of Christian Dior well and truly on the fashion map. For Dior Beauty’s first limited edition beauty collection this year, it turned to that pioneering couture spirit. Enter the New Look collection: a range of La Collection Privee fragrances and makeup items clad in houndstooth toile fabric. Credit: Dior Three full-sized (125ml) fragrances are included in the New Look collection, their glass bottles decorated with a houndstooth pattern. There’s also a travel perfume case (40ml) that can be outfitted with refills of other scents from the La Collection Privee line. Houndstooth is a design signature at Dior, an English menswear motif that the designer appropriated and applied to haute couture dresses. It’s also an enduring design element on the bottles of Miss Dior perfumes, engraved on the underside like a secret. In this New Look collection, houndstooth decorates beauty creations like fragrances and makeup. In Dior Beauty’s New Look collection, a toile fabric with the houndstooth pattern wraps the presentation boxes, and appears on the glass bottles of Gris Dior, Jasmin des Anges and Lucky. There’s also a travel spray that gets the same treatment, making for a very chic portable perfume item. Credit: Dior The six shades of Rouge Dior in this collection are some of the most wearable from the brand, in a range of velvet, satin, metallic and matte finishes. (Here are “10 Red Lipstick Ideas From Jeanette Aw, Blackpink’s Lisa, Hyuna And Other Celebs”) On makeup: the Dior Forever Couture Perfect Cushion and six shades of Rouge Dior lipsticks come dressed in houndstooth. Another fun bit of houndstooth detail: the embossed bullets of the lipsticks, which are a nice visual touch. Below, a look at the full range of Dior Beauty’s New Look collection, available now on the brand’s e-shop. If you’re shopping in person: the makeup collection is available at all Dior Beauty boutiques and counters, while the fragrances are exclusively available at the La Collection Privee Christian Dior boutique in Ion Orchard. “As long as Hitler controls Paris,” declared one American journalist, “Paris will never control fashion.” Taking these words to heart, Christian Dior, then in his 30s, set about waging a war of his own, and as the tanks and fighter jets of the 1940s loomed around him, the designer formed his own résistance against aesthetic Dior’s tailoring showed off the female figure. Photo: Alamy, courtesy of Christian Dior MuseumTwo years after the Germans surrendered the French capital, he launched what would become one of the most successful couture fashion brands in the was born in 1905 in the sleepy yet chic seaside town of Granville, Normandy. By the age of five, his affluent family had moved to Paris, hoping he would grow up to become a diplomat. Yet years later, after reluctantly studying for a degree in political science, the stifled creative ‘Dior, Designer of Dreams’ exhibition at the V&A Museum. Photo: Adrien DirandDior’s parents were incandescent with shame when he opened his own art gallery – the first step on a multi-million franc career ladder – believing that it would permanently tarnish the family name. Unapologetic homophobes, the Diors were embarrassed by his association with “effeminate” pursuits – indeed, they had banned him from studying architecture at university for this very reason. The fact that soon-to-be world-renowned artists such as Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró were exhibiting at the gallery, or that Pablo Picasso’s studio was right next door, meant little to his horrified parents. To them, his choice of career represented a world of casual hedonism and illicit homosexuality. Curiously, for a family that had made its name in the less-than-glamorous fertiliser industry, they seemed to believe it was art that would blight their reputation. They agreed to finance their errant son on the strict condition that the Dior name be kept Dior with model Sylvie, circa 1948. Courtesy of Christian Dior MuseumBut young Christian would have far more to contend with and overcome than his controlling parents’ purse-strings; namely the choke-hold of the Great Depression and the Second World War. He was forced to sacrifice his gallery and the short stint of employment that followed with fashion designer Robert Piguet was cut short when he was called upon to serve in the CONTROVERSYThe war over, in 1947 the world started to sit up and take notice of Dior’s debut solo launch – the now-legendary New Look. The collection was all about creating a curvaceous silhouette – prominent shoulder pads, moulded busts and voluminous, bouffant skirts, all anchored by a shapely cinched waist. Formerly elegant French women, emaciated in the aftermath of the war and still feeling the after-effects of food rationing, were desperate to regain their curves. It seemed the exaggerated femininity of Dior’s collection had come along at just the right time – although not everyone ‘Dior, Designer of Dreams’ exhibition at the V&A Museum, the Garden Section. Photo: Adrien DirandSome were enraged by the sheer amount of fabric used in his circle skirts – considered a shameful waste by those who’d previously scrimped and saved during wartime austerity. Others simply found the designs horrifyingly impractical. From lung-squeezing corsets to skirts so weighty that the women who sported them could barely fit through doorways, they were regarded by many as the “absolute antithesis of feminism”.And why, a quizzical Coco Chanel asked, would anyone take style advice from a man “who doesn’t know women [but merely] dreams of being one”?The ‘Dior, Designer of Dreams’ exhibition at the V&A Museum, Designers for Dior section. Photo: Adrien DirandBut while fellow designers simply sneered or raised their perfectly arched eyebrows in amusement, the public’s reaction was much more dramatic – and chaos quickly descended, both on and off the catwalk. In Montmartre, just a few days after the collection’s launch, sales assistants physically assaulted the models, attempting to tear their designer dresses from their bodies and rip them to around the world stormed fashion shows brandishing placards that read, “Burn Dior!” and, “Mr Dior, we abhor dresses to the floor!”. It seemed even his own industry had turned against him. Elle published a feature highlighting the cost of Dior’s dresses and pointing out what could be bought for the same price – such as 789,000kg of meat. Other magazines commented that post-war women would rather eat than buy frivolous fashion. Regardless, Dior’s supporters were just as passionate as his detractors. They considered his designs a celebration of ‘Dior, Designer of Dreams’ exhibition at the V&A Museum. Photo: Adrien DirandROYAL APPROVALFor Dior’s fans, the New Look represented a return to extravagance and luxury in an era of ration cards and meagre clothing coupons. In wartime, many women had been driving tractors and working the fields as land girls, or running busy households alone with a toddler under each arm, so the chance to dress glamorously was rare, if not non-existent. Dior’s clothing was far from just a style – it formed part of a political were the days of austerity and self-denial and no longer would women be afraid to reach into their hand-me-down purses. Now the only thing that was restrictive was the waistline – and that was exactly how Dior and his customers wanted Margaret in the Dior gown she wore on her 21st birthday. Photo: Popperfoto/ Getty ImagesIn the midst of all the controversy, Dior won the support of Princess Margaret, who wore one of his designs for her 21st birthday party. She was photographed in the extraordinarily bouffant gown, earning him abundant positive publicity. While the likes of Marie Antoinette before her supposedly declared “Let them eat cake!”, Margaret was now flaunting the designer’s reckless use of fabric with the implicit cry of “Let them wear couture!”. That year, no fashion photo could match it in the controversy Dior continued to create designs that emphasised the differences in body shape between women and men. Hips were padded in the same way that a modern-day brand might pad a bra. The exaggerated hip-waist ratio that he forged helped sustain a feminine appearance, even for women wearing suits. Posters soon appeared emblazoned with witty repartee such as “Do my hips look big in this?” as a nod to the Dior Margaret presents Dior with a scroll entitling him to Honorary Life Membership of the British Red Cross. Photo: Popperfoto/ Getty ImagesMOVING WITH THE TIMESThe fashion house was soon bringing in millions of francs a year and its glamorous gowns were responsible for more than half the country’s haute-couture exports, as well as half of France’s total exports to the USA. It had also diversified, adding furs, perfumes and stockings to its latter were especially significant for post-war liberation. Those seeking the New Look had previously had to make do with staining their legs brown and painting a line down the back to mimic the effect of seamed stockings. Thanks to Dior, these painstaking efforts could be abandoned in favour of the real Dior’s house and museum in Granville, where he spent his early years. Photo: ShutterstockHowever, a decade after the launch of the New Look, tragedy struck – Dior died of a heart attack aged just 52. Rumours circulated that it had been prompted by choking on a fish bone, by strenuous sex or had happened after a game of cards. To this day, the truth is unknown. What is indisputable is that the fashion world went into mourning, with thousands attending his funeral. Among them was his friend Pierre Bergé, who said: “It was a national event. It was as if France had ceased to live.”With the death of Dior came the demise of the styles that had made him famous. Some had been practical enough for everyday living, such as the elegant Bar Suit, comprising a jacket with a contrasting corseted waist and peplum hem and a sensible yet chic long A-line ‘Dior, Designer of Dreams’ exhibition at the V&A Museum, Dior in Britain section. Photo: Adrien DirandHowever, the more extreme designs had been downright passion killers. The most extravagant included boned evening dresses that apparently “flared out as much as two feet in all directions”, forcing party-going couples to dance at arms’ length. It was difficult to sit down and impossible to order a drink from a crowded bemused buyer joked that while these outfits were well-suited to royalty or silver-screen stars on photoshoots, they were “totally useless for any woman who wants to do anything!”.Clearly, the brand had to modernise. Women no longer needed lavish clothes that they struggled to move in as a means of bragging about their post-austerity wealth and freedom. Now they wanted liberation of a different kind – and demanded that it come in the shape of the lightweight, less restrictive ‘Dior, Designer of Dreams’ exhibition at the V&A Museum, Atelier section. Photo: Adrien DirandBy the 1960s, the protesters were back on the streets but this time it wasn’t because the Maison Dior was too extravagant – it was because the long skirts were too conservative. In the UK, for example, a group called the British Society for the Protection of Mini Skirts organised marches outside fashion shows – and the house of Dior duly granted their wishes for younger, edgier outfits. While the fashionistas of the 1940s believed that, paradoxically, their clothing had given them freedom by confining them, the women of the 1960s sought a rather more sexual to this day, Dior’s original message of female liberation is fiercely upheld, albeit in new ways: current creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri champions T-shirts emblazoned with the slogan “We should all be feminists”. So despite controversial beginnings, it seems certain that Christian Dior’s legacy will live forever. His parents would have been proud…From France Today magazine

christian dior kolekcja new look